Intake Air Temperature: 4.4 to 35-C (40 to 95-F) The following are the typical conditions necessary to enable an evaporative emission leak check:įive hours have elapsed after the engine has been turned OFF*.Įngine Coolant Temperature: 4.4 to 35"C (40 to 95"F) An air filter has been provided on the fresh air line. The canister pressure sensor has been included to the canister pump module. An ORVR ( Onboard Refueling Vapor Recovery) function is provided in the refueling valve. This system consists of a purg VSV, canister, refueling valve, canister pump module, and ECM. An evaporative emission leak check consists of an application of vacuum to the evaporative emissions system and monitoring the system for changes in pressure in order to detect a leakage. In this system, the ECM checks for evaporative emission leaks and outputs DTC ( Diagnostic Trouble Code) in the event of a malfunction. The ECM controls the purge VSV in accordance with the driving conditions in order to direct the fuel vapors into the engine, where they are burned. The canister stores the fuel vapors that have been created in the fuel tank. But you’d have to fix it by the time the smog test is needed again, in two years.The evaporative emission control system prevents the fuel vapors that are created in the fuel tank from being released directly into the atmosphere. If this is the first time this has happened, I think there’s probably a second way to get around all this. But if you phone you may get someone willing to help. Unfortunately, if the website is still like it was when I was going through a similar problem about a year ago, the BAR website isn’t very well organized, almost to the point where it appears the BAR is trying to obfuscate the issues and how the owner can resolve them for some reason. If all else fails, you might try phoning up the Calif BAR and see if they can offer a solution. All you want to do is get the car smogged, but no clear way to get past this hurdle. Maybe get your charging system and battery tested.Īll this sound pretty frustrating. A bad/loose fuse to the ECM, bad battery connections, battery on the fritz that drops out on bumps, etc. And maybe the cat monitor is just the one that takes the longest to complete. The ECM would randomly keep starting over with the monitors. It’s also possible the ECM is losing power for some reason, temporarily. Visit during a day/time when they aren’t very busy. They probably deal with this quit a bit, and they are the experts. I think if I had this problem I’d visit a Toyota dealership shop and ask them what driving pattern is needed for that monitor to complete.
You may just have to repeat that protocol a few times, and keep checking on your own.
Do you own an OBD II tool? They aren’t super expensive and are reported to be easy to use. You may have to experiment a bit to get it to set.
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